"StudyStudyStudy" (jesterjin)
09/19/2016 at 17:30 • Filed to: None
2
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"StudyStudyStudy" (jesterjin)
09/19/2016 at 17:30 • Filed to: None | 2
| 2 |
Not going to lie, I had hopes. I hoped this would be a simple matter of a slight deglaze and new pistons. Following that hope I figured I could save a few bucks by getting a honing brush and de-glazing it myself. Best case scenario the machine shop wouldn’t bother with de-glazing after cleaning the motor out, worse case scenario they would de-glaze anyways at which point I was only out 30$.
With the brush attached I followed the instructions, I wet it with oil the while spinning introduced it to the bores. Just a word of warning either make yourself an enclosed area or cover anything you don’t want stuff to get on, this sprayed oil everywhere.
Max speed going up and down as fast as I could, the results were pretty darn good.
Left side is brushed, right side is not.
However even with some extensive run times, it seemed like I wasn’t going to be able to get some of the deeper groves or patterns out of the walls.
So I finally made the call to the machine shop, they asked me to bring the main caps, the block and the timing cover to start.
Their verdict....
Block is rebuildable, no visible signs of cracking. The bores however were far too worn to even use a stock rebuild size or a +1 size piston. Luckily the walls on these motors are fairly thick and the block can go to 88mm so at a start of 83, loosing one or two mm is not the biggest concern.
The rods and cranks were thrown away due to excessive wear, warpage, and in the case of a couple rods being burned out from excessive heat.
Currently a rebuildable crank is being acquired, but looks like this block is going to take quite a bit more work to revive.
The temptation to jump ship or to move drivelines is strong. More then once I have considered maybe updating to the more popular 2jz, but given my lack of space it seems like those will only be pipe dreams for now. Currently I am doing all the reading I can on making this rebuild more bulletproof, there are 7m’s out there that haven’t spun rod bearings, that are driven cross country, and race all the time, just a matter of finding out what they do to keep up the reliability.
So far the machine shop is just putting things on a tab, so I am yet to be out any money despite the inspections, the cleaning, the ordering of some preliminary bearings, but I’m sure to get hit with a receipt in short order.
Money spent:
30 - brushresearch bore hone brush
Total spent - 22004
Die-Trying
> StudyStudyStudy
09/19/2016 at 18:57 |
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maybe its just me, but that block doesnt look to terribly worn. shows some water spots, and some minor wear......... but its not like it has ridges at the top of the cylinder like high milage engines............
it is good to end up with FRESH bore surfaces for a fresh rebuild. money well spent.........
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StudyStudyStudy
> Die-Trying
09/19/2016 at 19:03 |
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Supposedly it had less then 30,000 when it was first pulled. I thought it was odd that it was worn out already, but given that I ran it without oil for a period of time, it could have accelerated wear in certain axis of the bore.
Yea, I wouldn’t have been too concerned if I could get away with stock pistons or slightly oversized, but if it ends up being a more expensive custom bore piston, might as well get the full benefit and start out fresh.